While I was in Hawaii i decided to try something outrageous and crazy. For all of you who know me know my fear of fish, so you should know how insane this was for me to do.
My surf instructor Greg, who was a hottie, let me ride on his board. I paddled out about 1/3 of a mile out to the big waves and screamed the whole way. I was swallowing salt water by the gallons. Once I got the hang of getting out of the direct line of the waves and we turned the other way to began our attempt to catch a wave a calmness came over me. Almost like I was there for a mission. I'm laying on my stomach and Greg is laying behind me and screams, "Here's a sick one, start paddling". The word Sick, from what I learned, means awesome, cool amazing. They also used the word disgusting in the same way.
With nothing but the ocean in front of me I paddle with all my might. Before I know it we are riding the wave. I look behind me and Greg is already standing up. He screams Knees, which is the first step in standing on the board. I know from that point on I have a 50/50 chance of falling in the big blue fish infested ocean. With one foot planted and then the next I was standing on the surf board. I was surfing. Sure there was a pro behind me controlling the board but I still had to maintain my own balance. I guess the million years of cheerleading paid off. It was the biggest rush ever and also an amazing workout.
Friday, February 9, 2007
I'm 30 and i can still KICK....
Posted by Jamie Chitty at 9:32 AM
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